Baroque flowers

Goldwork on royal blue velvet and kid leather

11 x 9 inches

Goldwork is the art of embroidery using metal threads. This piece gold thread have been laid or couched onto the surface fabric which is velvet and carefully secured using a couching thread waxed in beeswax for protection and longevity. A traditional tool called a mellor and a stiletto was used to position the threads and create the holes needed to pull them through the velvet and secure them tightly on the other side of the fabric.

There are several types of metal thread that have been used in this piece to create different textures, for example; passing, Japanese thread, purl-purl, check, Rococo, Elizabethan twist, broad plate and of course spangles and beads.

Goldwork (also called Opus Anglicanum) was developed in the Middle Ages in England where it was used extensively in church vestments and hangings. It was used later in clothing and furnishings for royalty and nobility throughout Europe, and later for military and other regalia. It reached its high point, in 20th century Spain, for clothing statues of Our Lord and Our Lady, most notably, during the Spanish Holy Week processions in Andalucía.

I was inspired to design this piece based on some Baroque flowers I saw at the Brompton Oratory that were carved into the stonework on the outside of the building. I love the combination of goldwork on velvet as can often be seen on vestments, liturgical furnishings and processional banners.